This month, I had the privilege of deep diving into the science, history, and craftsmanship of diamonds at the De Beers Institute of Diamonds in London. It was an experience that left me with a renewed sense of awe, not just for the brilliance of the finished gem, but for the extraordinary journey each diamond undertakes, from deep within the earth to a piece of treasured jewellery.

At the Institute, I explored the geology behind diamond formation, learning how these precious stones form under immense pressure and heat, some 3 billion years ago, more than 150 kilometres beneath the Earth’s surface. Born from the planet’s most extreme conditions, each diamond is a literal piece of Earth's ancient past, an unrepeatable geological miracle.

One of the most fascinating parts of the experience was learning to assess a rough diamond’s internal patterns, what the experts call its “fingerprint.” No two are the same. Understanding this natural blueprint is a key part of the sorting and planning process, where the 4 Cs - cut, colour, clarity, and carat -come into play not as abstract metrics, but as tools to reveal the stone’s true potential and personality.

What struck me most is that crafting a diamond isn’t simply about perfection, it’s about reading the story inside each stone, then shaping it with both instinct and precision. At the De Beers Institute, I witnessed this transformation firsthand: the way a rough, unassuming crystal slowly becomes alive with light. It’s a process where science meets art, and where centuries of tradition still guide modern innovation.

Diamonds have long held a mythical status across cultures, as symbols of eternity, power, protection, and love. Their legacy spans from ancient India, where they were first mined and revered as spiritual talismans, to 20th-century marketing brilliance, where De Beers defined the diamond as the ultimate symbol of commitment.

Being able to touch the raw stone, feel its coarse edges, and then observe the brilliance of the finished cut created a deep connection, not just to the material, but to the millions of years of history and human effort behind it. It’s a reminder that what we wear and work with in jewellery carries not only beauty, but memory, pressure, and time.

 

How the Cut Is Determined for a Diamond

Determining how to cut a diamond begins long before it touches a polishing wheel. It’s a highly skilled process that balances science, craftsmanship, and strategy. The cutter's goal is to maximise the diamond's beauty while preserving as much carat weight as possible from the rough stone.

It all starts with a detailed analysis of the rough diamond’s internal structure, often using advanced imaging technology like 3D scanning or X-ray mapping. This reveals the stone’s natural inclusions, growth patterns, and "strain" zones, allowing the cutter to assess its potential shapes and sizes.

From there, the cutter evaluates:

• Crystal shape: Some roughs naturally lend themselves to rounds, others to fancy shapes like ovals, pears, or emerald cuts.

• Clarity zones: They’ll map out how to remove or minimise inclusions.

• Light performance: They’ll determine the best proportions and angles to maximise brilliance, fire, and scintillation.

• Carat yield: There’s always a balance between beauty and retaining weight; a flawless cut that loses too much weight can drastically reduce a stone's value.

Ultimately, the decision is part geometry, part instinct, and part artistry, shaping not just a diamond, but its story. The chosen cut becomes the bridge between what nature created and how we experience its beauty.